What term describes a long-wavelength, shallow-water wave caused by rapid displacement of water?

What term describes a long-wavelength, shallow-water wave caused by rapid displacement of water?

• A. Tsunami
• B. Wave Crest
• C. Wave
• D. Wave Diffraction

Answer: (A)

A tsunami is a long-wavelength, shallow-water wave generated by rapid displacement of water, typically from an undersea earthquake, landslide, or volcanic activity. In the deep ocean these waves have very large wavelengths and modest amplitudes, so they travel fast; as they move into shallower water, their speed drops (c ≈ sqrt(g h)) and the wavelength shortens while the height can grow dramatically, leading to powerful coastal runups. This distinguishes it from ordinary waves, which are usually wind-driven with shorter wavelengths; a wave crest is just the highest part of a wave, and wave diffraction is the bending of waves around obstacles.

A tsunami is a long-wavelength, shallow-water wave generated by rapid displacement of water, typically from an undersea earthquake, landslide, or volcanic activity. In the deep ocean these waves have very large wavelengths and modest amplitudes, so they travel fast; as they move into shallower water, their speed drops (c ≈ sqrt(g h)) and the wavelength shortens while the height can grow dramatically, leading to powerful coastal runups. This distinguishes it from ordinary waves, which are usually wind-driven with shorter wavelengths; a wave crest is just the highest part of a wave, and wave diffraction is the bending of waves around obstacles.